ESSAY
La Reina del Barrio
By Tatja Lucía
A desert rose grows in the cracks of cement as a symbol of carnal resilience.
A coat of paint yellows with age.
Obsidian unearths after days of rain.
A coveted recipe for yellow corn masa gets passed down from generation to generation. A piece from a grandma’s altar becomes a lasting cherished relic. Our personal worlds turn on the tracks of poetics of how we attach meaning to chattels we can hold. The materials from which our mythos is born. Tangible commodities carry the weight of our stories in their tiny trinket hearts. Coveted possessions and heirlooms have long included treasures forged from limitation. Something special created from very little, and despite all obstacles. These are proverbially remembered and celebrated as defiant pieces of lively fodder.
Working class elegance was lovingly carved out by those who benefited from its validation. Beauty without wealth became a cultural phenomenon that remains at the pinnacle of our humanity. It often is the wellspring from which the greatest art is born. Our mothers and grandmothers wore these symbols with protection and pride. We grew up witnessing the power of these seemingly sentient ornaments. Costume jewelry became an emblem of identity, cementing its place in history as not only familiar and valuable adornment, but also a symbol of our culture and everlasting strength.
Regionally, in the southwest, squash blossoms, turquoise and Navajo pearls were worn alongside gilded strands that were reminiscent of old Hollywood. There was a distinct sense of honor in sporting these stacks.
Rhinestones gained popularity in the US in the 20th century as a way for working-class people to participate in the visual language of wealth. Originating as natural crystal formations in the Rhine river in the late 1800’s, they found a home in the opulent backdrop of American culture. Hollywood, westerns and stage productions utilized the efficiency of rhinestones, and soon they became staples in everyday fashion. The affordability and accessibility of these sparkly gems secured them as a lasting and impactful memento in history.
As many artful aspects do in the landscape of our rich and turbid culture, the grit and the glamour were able to exist harmoniously within the same space due to technological advancements and social ambition. Rhinestones hold a fascinating place in the evolution of fashion and economics. They live at the intersection between imitation and authenticity, and for much of our lineage, became mirrors of human desire. They twinkled and reflected the sun to the same effect as diamonds. No longer was luxury reserved for the elite or upper class. Any ordinary person could bask in the finery of modern heirlooms. Their emergence reflected innovation and hope. They allowed people to express aspiration, creativity, and individuality without requiring immense financial resources.
The symbology behind the blue collar fashion movement also underscores an enduring cultural power. Just like diamonds and other precious jewels, rhinestones convey caliber and beauty, but they do so in a more impartial egalitarian way. Their sparkle conveys a self- made refinement and is backed by the endurance of working hands.
That which sparkles is to be assigned merit and authority no matter the cost. The convenience of costume jewelry served as a major player in redefining what was seen as valuable. This phenomenon created a kind of self awareness and social rebellion that’s become synonymous with the American working class. It was anti-elitist fashion, value beyond price. We often remember the specific pieces worn by our bygone loved ones. We visit in photographs the vitality and glamour that familial jewelry transposes. Some of us are lucky enough to possess our grandmother’s keepsakes. Whether they be diamonds or rhinestones.
Photography by Tasnim Sara, Model: Rivala Garcia wearing La Yoteña Jewelry Set by Yoté Jewelry